MeetDenver: Karen LuKanic

Karen LuKanic at her restaurant, Chef Zorba’s.

EatDenver sat down with Karen LuKanic, owner of Chef Zorba’s and our newest board member.

Chef Zorba’s, located in Congress Park, has been a neighborhood staple since 1979, serving up American diner fare alongside Greek and Mexican specialties. Karen’s commitment to strengthening and feeding her community and her perspective as a single-unit operator make her an invaluable asset to the EatDenver team.

On Restaurant Life…

1. What's your favorite hat to wear at the restaurant?

HR for sure… one of the main reasons I wanted to own a restaurant was to create a supportive, respectful culture. I think we’ve done that at Zorba’s… we all know what’s important to each other, both at work and outside the restaurant. It makes us a better team and it makes me a better boss.

3. What's the fan-favorite dish at Zorba's? And your normal order?

The sleeper on the menu is definitely the Gyro Melt… It’s like a Patty Melt with cheese and sauteed onions, grilled on marble rye, but with gyro meat – with a side of battered onion rings, it’s the ultimate hangover special. I personally am a giant fan of our Huevos Rancheros because our homemade green chile is the bomb.

4. Who is one of the most interesting people you met through working in restaurants?

When I met Henry Kissinger at a private event in Chicago, he was so genuinely interested in me and what I did. When we spoke, he would turn his ear toward my face, listening closely like he was really contemplating what I said. Then his questions blew me away… thoughtful, engaged, like he was my best friend’s dad, not a world-renowned diplomat. I’ll never forget his listening style and I try to emulate it when I meet new people, too.

Chef Zorba’s facade. Photo courtesy of Chef Zorba’s.

On Mentorship…

1.       Do you have a mentor who's been especially impactful? 

I’ve been fortunate to have several - my boss at Anschutz Entertainment Group was so wise, deliberate, and quietly funny. The most important thing he taught me was how to think before reacting and I truly loved working for him. My boss at Xanterra taught me how to bridge motherhood with a demanding work schedule and showed me how to really know someone professionally.

2.       What's the best advice you got about working in or owning restaurants? 

I’m a bit type A and the best advice I ever got from one of my early mentors was “There will always be another mountain for you to climb, you just need to decide which ones.” Sometimes the hardest thing to do is say “no” to an opportunity… but that advice lives in my head and gets me back on the rails often.

3.       What advice would you give to people interested in opening their own restaurant? 

Don’t do it immediately preceding a worldwide pandemic! Kidding… kind of. Here's more timeless advice - A happy staff leads to happy customers.

Karen LuKanic with her family.

On Life…

1.       After working all over the country, why Denver?

When we were choosing schools for our daughter in LA, I remember filling out kindergarten applications and thinking this is not for us. I specifically recall one question that asked, “besides learning, what does your child enjoy?” Had I answered honestly (Bandaids & Disney princesses), I’m pretty sure she would have never gotten accepted anywhere. My husband and I were both traveling for work, so we felt the middle of the country was better than living on a coast. We looked at moving to my hometown, Chicago, or his, Denver. We were making the decision in the dead of winter, so the choice was quite obvious.

2.       What keeps you sane? Is it the baklava or the banana pudding?   

I’ve definitely plowed through a banana pudding on stressful days. Actually what keeps me sane is our customers. We have a lot of regulars… actually many daily regulars. Some don’t have their families or people around them for support. When I feel like my plates are spinning out of control, it definitely grounds me to have a conversation with one of them and feel how much our little restaurant is an essential part of their existence and the community. Perspective is everything.

3.       What is an unexpected hobby you picked up during quarantine? 

Maybe not a hobby as much as a professional skill, but lobbying. In April 2020, our group health insurance policy was on the verge of being cancelled by the provider and I connected with the Colorado Insurance Commissioner to prevent that from happening. I never considered myself politically contentious, but I wasn’t going to sit back and allow our insurer to take away our employees’ coverage during a worldwide pandemic. I went all mama bear on him, and it worked… we (and other independent operators) kept our coverage while our employees were furloughed.

Chef Zorba’s Athenian wrap and homemade spanakopita. Photo courtesy of Chef Zorba’s.

4.       On your days off, where do you eat/drink?

Anywhere Asian! Thai, Chinese, Sushi, Indian, Malaysian, Korean, Vietnamese…

5.       What is the best thing you've read recently?

American Dirt by Jeanine Cummins - it’s a story about a woman and her child who cross the border from Mexico to the US and begin working and living in the migrant fields of California.

6.       If you turned on your Spotify, what's playing? 

Ah… I’m still a playlist girl! Right now, I’m playing my list called Sunday Morning… mellow, eclectic, totally weird.

EatDenver’s Pancakes & Veuve member happy hour hosted by Chef Zorba’s October 2021. Photo courtesy of Steve Peterson Photo.

Craving a gyro melt? Want to hear more about Karen firsthand?

Stop by Chef Zorba’s 7am-8pm daily in Denver’s Congress Park neighborhood.